MOUNTAINEERING COURSES

YANAPACCHA MOUNTAINEERING COURSE - 4-NIGHTS / 5-DAYS

In this 5 day course you will learn the basics of mountaineering in the best possible classroom - on the mountain. You will learn proper techniques and gain skills from Beto Pinto, UIAGM /IFMGA /AGMP mountaineering guide. Beto has been guiding for nearly 15 years and holds the record as the youngest Peruvian climber (age 12) to summit a glaciated peak at nearly 19,000’. Two years later, he summited Mt. Huascaran 22,205’ the highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca, and the highest in Peru. He has opened countless new routes and has summited virgen peaks in both the Cordilera Blanca and the Central Range.

NOTE: we also offer intermediate and advanced level courses - please inquire!

Important: We suggest you arrive in Huaraz at least 2 days prior to the start of the trip. This will allow for proper acclimation as Huaraz sits at 10,000’ in elevation. It also allows us to review the days ahead and check to ensure you have proper clothing and gear.
YANAPACCHA MOUNTAIN West Face Normal Route (5460 masl)

First ascent: July 1, 1959, by D. Mackay, H. Tothill. Grade: PD (moderate) Altitude: 5460m.a.s.l.

Day 1: Huaraz – KM42 – Morraine Camp (4900m/16072ft)

We depart Huaraz in the morning prepared for 5 days in the mountains. We drive to the trailhead of Yanapaccha (about 3 hours) and load up for the approach to the Moraine Camp for the Course (4950 meters). Participants will be carrying backpacks with both individual and group gear. The hike in is approximately 2 hours to the campsite and set up camp and organize our equipment. Preliminary skills may begin this day as time allows.

Day 2: Glacier travel & Ice Climbing

We break camp at approximately 7:30AM after breakfast and head up to the ice to practice various techniques and scenarios of glacier travel. Our classroom boasts beautiful views over Yanapaccha Lake and here we have good quality ice for learning. You will start off on top ropes and learn the basics of placing your ice axes and crampons and optimizing your energy and strength which is very important for ice climbing. You will also learn about different types of ice and its behavior, rope technique and safety.

Day 3: Belay systems, anchors, & haul systems

Breakfast is at 7:00AM and class begins at 8:00 am. Spend the morning in campsite learning belay systems, equalized anchors, and haul systems - all components of the crevasse rescue system. This is a necessary skill every mountaineer should be comfortable with before setting foot on a glacier. After thoroughly understanding the system on dry land, we then return to the glacier in the afternoon where we put our new skills to the test on the snow and at the edge of an actual crevasse. The entire afternoon is dedicated to the practice of this important skill, "crevasse rescue," which is a common hazard of all glaciated climbs. We’ll return to camp at about 5:30, have dinner, and sleep.

Day 4: Base camp - Summit - Base camp

We wake up at about 2:00AM for breakfast and gearing up for the climb. Head up to the glacier and begin the summit attempt. Depending upon snow conditions, weather, and team health/fitness, the summit can be reached in 4-6 hours. The descent will take 3-4 hours and you should be back in camp by mid afternoon for a warm lunch and some rest. Those who wish to continue with skills will head back up to the glacier or to a location where the instructor(s) can work on anything participants are still want to practice.

Day 5: Base Camp - Huaraz

After breakfast we’ll pack up camp and begin the hike out to the road where our transport will be waiting for our return to Huaraz.
INCLUDED: UIAGM guide, private transport to/from trailhead, all meals while on the mountain (excellent, high energy meals prepared fresh on the trail), high altitude mountaineering tents, complete kitchen equipment (tables, chairs, dining tent etc), porters/arrieros and/or pack animals to haul the heavy gear, technical climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, snow anchors etc., basic First Aid kit, radio communication

EXCLUDED: flights to/from your country of origin to Peru/Huaraz, Bus ticket Lima-Huaraz-Lima and associated hotels if needed, transfers between bus station/airport, personal items such as expedition clothing, harness, helmet, ice axe (rentable if needed) extra meals outside the trip itinerary (in Lima or Huaraz), sleeping bag & mattress, travel insurance (recommended), Huascaran National Park entrance (payable at park gate), and tips to guide and staff.

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Address: Jose Olaya #580 - Huaraz - Ancash - Perú
Email:  betoclimbing@gmail.com
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