ALPAMAYO (5947masl/19511’)

Day 1: Huaraz - Cashapampa - Llamacorral Camp (3760masl/12335’)

We’ll drive out to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa (9,000 feet). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, we hike with day packs to Llama Corral (3750mt), where we camp for the night.

Day 2: Llamacorral - Base Camp Alpamayo (4200masl/13779’)

A fairly short day, about 2 at 3 hours with day packs. Basecamp is made at (4200mt) in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route. Basecamp is scenic, with greenery, running water and outhouses.

Day 3: Base Camp - Camp 1 Alpamayo (5300masl/17388’)

From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and for this reason we’ll plan to climb all the way to Col camp in one day. The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the Col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp.

Day 4: Camp 1 - Summit Alpamayo (5947masl/19511’)

If we are well acclimatized and strong, we will attempt the summit of Alpamayo today. The route to the summit has a 1-2 hour approach across a steep glacier before crossing the bergschrund into the South-West Face. The French route includes 7 pitches of two-tool (55-90 degree) ice and snow, which will take us to just below the summit ridge. A final hard, steep pitch puts us on top, where in a good year we can straddle the ridge (one foot on each side hanging over 2000+ foot faces) and work our way to the true summit. We rappel the route to descend, and then return to our high camp.

Day 5: Camp 1 - Base Camp Alpamayo (4200masl/13779’)

We may have descended the day before, if the ascents are made at the earliest opportunities. Otherwise, we will descend today, to base camp (6 hours), ready for the walk and return drive to Huaraz tomorrow.

Day 6: Base Camp - Cashapampa - Return to Huaraz

We trek out to Cashapampa, meet up with our transport and then return to Huaraz.
NOTE: From here, there is the option to continue to climb Quitaraju, as it shares the same high camp as Alpamayo. We can easily combine the two climbs.

INCLUDED: UIAGM guide, private transport to/from trailhead, all meals while on the mountain (excellent, high energy meals prepared fresh on the trail), high altitude mountaineering tents, complete kitchen equipment (tables, chairs, dining tent etc), porters/arrieros and/or pack animals to haul the heavy gear, technical climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, snow anchors etc., basic First Aid kit, radio communication

EXCLUDED: flights to/from your country of origin to Peru/Huaraz, Bus ticket Lima-Huaraz-Lima and associated hotels if needed, transfers between bus station/airport, personal items such as expedition clothing, harness, helmet, ice axe & boots (rentable if needed) extra meals outside the trip itinerary (in Lima or Huaraz), sleeping bag & mattress, travel insurance (recommended), optional tips to guide(s) & expedition staff

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